
- Neon nights
- Back-alley ramen
- Hakone onsen
- Kamakura
- Nikko
- Unshowy welcome
Japan reinventing itself in real time — glass towers above ramen counters, neon over quiet shrines, a city so deep you could never see all of it. Around it sit the days out: the hot-spring valleys of Hakone, the temple-calm of Kamakura, the cedar shrines of Nikko. The welcome here is real but unshowy.

